Lavie Maison : Near Arc de Triomphe, Hot Tub & AC

The jacuzzi tub is the first thing you'll notice. Fifteen square metres, and someone thought to put one in.

The studio runs cool under air conditioning, with a proper fitted kitchen tucked into the corner. A connected lock means you let yourself in whenever the train pulls in — midnight, dawn, whenever.

Ternes is the quieter side of the 17e. Walk five minutes to Rue Poncelet for the morning marché — oysters, cheese, a queue at Alléosse — then ten minutes more brings you to the Arc de Triomphe.

Made for two: a couple on a short Paris trip, or one traveller who wants the city without the crowds. What stays with you is the ritual — market run, long bath, then out into le quartier again.

Step outside and the avenue widens the way only Haussmann's streets do — the Arc sitting heavy at the end of one perspective, a florist unrolling buckets of peonies onto the pavement, the tabac on the corner already thick with espresso steam and the crackle of a radio tuned to France Info. Le matin here moves at the pace of dog-walkers and school-run mothers.

The anchor is the Marché Poncelet, a two-block pedestrian stretch off avenue des Ternes where the rôtisserie window drips fat onto potatoes browning below. Ask for a quarter chicken with the pommes de terre confites underneath — it's the Sunday lunch half the 17e has been eating for decades.